Our guide waved for our attention, then commanded with a mischievous
grin, Watch! See this? she asked, holding up a used paper napkin. Here
is what you do with it in Spain. She tossed it with a flamingo flourish
onto the floor. She had done it hundreds of times but still enjoyed
shocking our American and Australian sensibilities.
My wife,
Sharon, and I had come to San Sebastin, Spain, to learn, among other
things, the Art of Eating Standing Up: the tapas crawl. But the coastal
town of San Sebastin is in Basque Country, snugly in the northeast
corner of Spain, far from Madrid, and here, the flags that proudly
flapped from most buildings are Basque, not Spanish, banners.
Maps,
guidebooks, even our iPhone temperature app, listed it as Donostia-San
Sebastin, which is the official combination of its Basque and Spanish
names. This small fishing port began as a Roman port, becoming famous in
the 1850s when Queen Isabella II came for the healing waters sheltered
in the bay that was blessed with a golden crescent of sand, the Playa de
la Concha. English majors remember that in Ernest Hemingways first
novel, The Sun Also Rises, protagonist Jake Barnes visits the port and
swims in the calm bay.
Tapas began, the story goes, when travel
by horseback was common: Innkeepers in Andalusia (in southern Spain)
would offer a glass of sherry or local wine to customers, and they began
covering the glass with a piece of bread, to keep dust and flies out of
the glass. This cover became know as a tapa, from the Spanish verb,
tapar: to cover. These were simple offerings: a slice of ham, a bit of
cheese, grilled peppers, sauteed shrimp usually on a crusty baguette.
Eventually, the term extended to include just about any kind of hot or
cold starters/appetizers/hors doeuvres.
Spain is a relatively
large country with distinctive regions, and tapas can be very localized.
In the Basque region, tapas are called pintxos (pronounced PEEN-chos).
Of course, the real beauty for American travelers with limited Spanish
skills is you dont have to read a menu; the tapas/pintxos are
conveniently displayed on the bar, and you simply gesture that you want
to order, the bar man hands you a plate, and you then point at which
items you want.
The Basque region in general, and San Sebastin
in particular, is famed for its culinary offerings.You Can Buy Various
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from here. So we simply walked to Parte Vieja, the Old City, which
claims to have more bars per square meter than anywhere else in the
world, and took our chances.
After two days of relying on luck
with mixed results, we took a Pintxos Tasting Tour with San Sebastin
Food, a company run by Englishman Jon Warren that I found on the
Internet. We and a small group of Americans and Australians gathered at
San Sebastin Food to be introduced to Eli Susperregui,These personalzied
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with free shipping. our culinary guide, at the shockingly early hour
(at least to Spaniards) of 6:30 p.m. to learn about pintxos.
Starting
with skewers of gambas (shrimp) saute with garlic at Bar Goiz Argi, we
quickly learned that the area surrounding San Sebastin is home to more
than 50 cider producers, while we were offered a glass of sidra. Eli
raised the bottle high over her head, pouring a solid stream that
cascaded into our glasses but pooled only an inch or two in the bottom,
to release the ciders aroma and provide a bit of drama.We sell bestsmartcard and
different kind of laboratory equipment in us. We clicked our glasses
and gave the traditional chin-chin, the Spanish version of cheers, and
enjoyed.
We moved onto Le Mejillo Neva, a tapas bar just steps
from the port and specializing in seafood, then, while not officially on
the tour, we poke our heads into a mens gastronomical society, where
Eli knew someone who was preparing for a dinner the next night. While we
didnt learn about pintxos, it was a clear sign that this was a
food-obsessed town.
Switching gears to a more upscale
presentation, we encountered an almost jewelry store-like display of
food at Bar Zeruko, where we seemingly broke the rules of a tapas crawl
and sat down for a surprise. We sipped a refreshing acidic white wine
from Galicia while the bar men orchestrated eight miniature ceramic
smokers with fresh bacalao (codfish) on a grate with the essence of
green salad in a slender tube. We were instructed to smoke the fish for
just 10 seconds, flip the almost raw fish and wait another 10 seconds
and then enjoy, which we did, with most of the group adding a few
seconds to cook the fish.
With that, we moved on to heavier
dishes, stopping in Bar Borda Berri with a hearty mushroom risotto beef
checks. Again, we saw a different side of pintxos, since Eli had to
order from a menu for us, instead of the much-beloved point-and-eat
method.
At this point, we were full but obediently followed Eli to the next stop, Gandarias Jatetxea,Need a compatible parkingassistsystem for
your car? both a bar and restaurant, and by this time, the crowd was
starting to pick up. As we settled in, Eli explained that she comes here
with her cuadrilla, a group of friends that goes out for a pintxos
crawl at least once a week. In Basque culture, a cuadrilla starts in
primary school and continues through adulthood. We focused on meat
pintxos matched with a tasty Rioja red wine from the nearby vineyards,
always served with a sliced baguette. Bread, exclaimed Eli, Spaniards
cant live without bread!
Dessert is not the first food group
that comes to mind when youre on the hunt for pintxos, but Eli wanted to
finish the night with a simple tarta de queso, a cheesecake, at La
Vi?a,An bestgemstonebeads is
a device which removes contaminants from the air. a crowded bar and
restaurant where she had worked at one time. Part of the group sat at a
small table while the smokers remained outside and enjoyed an
after-dinner cigarette and sherry, instead of the quivery slice of
cheesecake that we quickly devoured, even though we had long ago hit the
full line.
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